Around the country, restaurants led by Native chefs are reimagining what “American” food means. In doing so, they are also reclaiming an important culinary culture that has been long buried and inaccessible, even to Native people. In the Midwest, that includes folks like Sean Sherman, founder of The Sioux Chef, Owamni and the Indigenous Food Lab in Minneapolis. But it also includes up-and-comers like Bryce Stevenson, a native of Red Cliff, Wisconsin who also happens to have deep ties to Milwaukee.
This week, we’re sitting down with Stevenson, who candidly shares his personal story, from growing up on a reservation in Northern Wisconsin to beginning his journey to reconnect with his Native roots. Along the way, he shares his food story, from his motivation to enter the restaurant industry to the experiences that led him to pursue a better understanding of indigenous foodways. Stevenson also paints a picture of what guests can expect at his first restaurant, Miijim, which will open this spring on Madeline Island, a sacred cultural hub for the Ojibwe.